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I visited Orkney with my parents in November 2018, and due to the time of year a few of the attractions were closed but it was still so much fun. There is actually so much to see and do in Orkney and it’s very easy to get around with your own car. The temperatures were dropping going into winter and it was so windy! It’s very exposed to the elements and because of this there are hardly any trees on the islands.
Where it is and how to get to Orkney
Orkney is an archipelago about 10miles (16kms) north of the mainland of Scotland. It is made up of around 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited. With a population of just over 22k, the locals, Orcadians, speak their own dialect of the Scots language.
We booked the ferry from Gilles Bay to St Margarets Hope because the journey is less than two hours compared to the ferry from Aberdeen. I live quite close to Aberdeen but personally would rather drive an extra few hours than spend the extra time on a ferry. However, if 6 hours on the choppy North Sea doesn’t sound so bad then that’s also an option. As well as the ferries, there are also flights from major cities around the UK into Kirkwall.
You can check out Pentland Ferries or Northlink Ferries for timetables and prices.
Everything to see and do in Orkney
Kirkwall
Kirkwall is the largest town and is situated on the Mainland of Orkney. Our self-catering accommodation was in Kirkwall and its a great central location for seeing the rest of the island. Kirkwall itself is easy to walk around. It has a lovely harbour and the streets around St Magnus Cathedral are lined with cute wee independent retailers.
St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall is the most northerly cathedral in Britain and was founded by the Viking, Earl Rognvald, in 1137. Earl Rognvald built the cathedral in honour of his uncle Magnus Erlendsson, who was previously joint Earl of Orkney alongside his cousin Haakon Paulsson. However, things turned sour between them and Haakon had his cook kill Magnus by striking him on the head with an axe.
Magnus was originally buried at Birsay and there were numerous reports of miraculous healings from people visiting his burial site, so later the relics of St Magnus were inshrined in the cathedral. In 1917 a hidden cavity was uncovered in the cathedral containing a box of bones, including a skull showing a wound consistent with a blow from an axe.
The cathedral survived the Protestant Reformation in the 17th century, when government forces had besieged and destroyed Kirkwall Castle and intended to destroy St Magnus Cathedral because rebels had hidden inside. The bishop had intervened and prevented them from carrying out their plan. It is the only wholly mediaeval Scottish cathedral, and one of the best preserved buildings of the era in Britain.
Standing Stones of Stenness & Ring of Brodgar
These two neolithic henges are only 1.2kms apart from each other. The Standing Stones of Stenness may be the oldest henge site in the British Isles, whilst the Ring of Brodgar is the only major henge and stone circle in Britain which is an almost perfect circle. Pottery has been uncovered at the Standing Stones of Stenness connecting it to Skara Brae.
Maeshowe Visitor Centre
Not too far from the standing stones is the Maeshowe Visitor Centre. You need to join a tour here to get to the Neolithic chambered cairn. Initially this was a burial monument, probably built around 2800 BC. There are amazing runic inscriptions carved in the cave proving that Vikings were here in about the 12th century. It represents the largest single collection of runic carvings in the world. The entrance passage is only about 3 feet high, so you have to bend over or crawl to get through to the chamber. The tour guide said that many people knock their heads by standing up before they are instructed to – ouch!
If you love learning about our Viking ancestors then this is definitely worth doing while you’re in Orkney.
Italian Chapel
Following an attack by German forces in 1939 at Scapa Flow, Winston Churchill ordered barriers be built to block off four of the entrances to Scapa Flow. Due to a shortage in manpower, and a recent capture of thousands of Italian soldiers in North Africa, it was decided that 550 of them would be transported to Orkney to complete the work. The camp priest requested a chapel be built and so two Nissen huts were joined and converted into a chapel. Among the POWs was an artist, Domenico Chiocchetti, who painted the Madonna and Child above the alter, and others around the chapel. It is stunning and definitely worth checking out.
Skara Brae
My mind sometimes cannot grasp the concept of something surviving so long. Skara Brae dates back to between 3200BC and 2200BC. It was so well protected by the sand that covered it for thousands of years that the buildings and their contents – including fireplaces, beds and dressers, are so well preserved.
The settlement was first discovered after a storm in 1850, when the Laird excavated some of the site. However it wasn’t until 1925, when another storm hit, that the full excavation began.
There’s a visitor centre which is very informative and has a range of touch screen presentations and quizzes, as well as artefacts discovered during the excavations. The walk to the village is very well designed, it really puts into perspective how old the village is. Of all the things to see and do in Orkney, this would be the top of my recommendations!
Enjoying the beauty of Orkney
Of course, you need to factor in time for taking in the views and saying hello to some of the locals.
As I said there are so many independent retail shops around Orkney, including artists, jewellery designers, potters and sculptors. We picked up a brochure in Kirkwall that had a map of studios you could visit. Alison Moore Designs in Dounby was a favourite of mine, I got a ring made there and I absolutely love it. (I paid when I ordered and they mailed it a couple of weeks later to my home address.)
On our last night we drove to the west of the island and parked next to Birsay Earl’s Palace where we caught the most gorgeous sunset. It was a beautiful, clear night and the colours were magnificent.
The wind on the drive back to the ferry was INSANE! It made the journey back to the mainland very rocky and I was a little seasick – I was so glad it was only an hour and a half journey!
Where to eat in Orkney
Orkney Brewery in Quoyloo – a tasty lunch stop with a beer tasting flight.
Smithfield Hotel in Dounby – We stopped in here for our evening meal as it was around the corner from Alison Moore Designs. They have delicious sticky toffee pudding!
Julia’s Cafe & Bistro in Stromness – A bustling little cafe in Stromness with a typical Scottish menu. Gluten free options available.
There is loads of local produce available including cheeses, meats and jams. It’s nice to buy local and have a nice spread at your accommodation or a picnic when you’re out exploring.
Where to stay in Orkney
Kirkwall is a great central location, and loads of hotels or self-catering options available. When I’m visiting a place for a few days I prefer to book a house or apartment so I can self-cater. I like to buy local produce and make up a picnic or be able to have breakfast nice and early before setting out for the day.
Kirkwall has plenty of accommodation available, whether you are looking for self catering or a hotel for your stay.
Costs
These costs exclude what you would pay for meals or general spending money (i.e. souvenirs) as everyone has their own budget for those sorts of things. We used a tank and a half of fuel for our full trip, including the 11 hour return drive we had on the mainland.
You can get an Orkney Explorer Pass if you’re planning to visit all the Historic Environment Scotland sites. It is available from April to October so we weren’t able to get it, but worth looking into if you’ll be visiting in high season.
Attractions that were closed for winter (but I’ve heard good things about)
- Tomb of the Eagles Visitor Centre
- Scapa Flow Museum
Orkney is well worth the trip!
The people, the beauty and the historic sights make this a unique place in the world. It is so worth the trip there, you could spend between two days (if you are really quick) to five days, if you like to take a bit more time exploring.
Please let me know if you’ve been and if you have any other recommendations!
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